Here’s how the conversation goes in our house when we’re planning a visit to any of our favourite restaurants where the cuisine is more of the imaginative kind. “I’m not having the degustación menu this time,” one of us will proclaim. “Let’s try something from the normal menu for a change.” We roll up at whatever...
The invitation says eight o’clock, so why are we alone, surrounded by empty tables set for dinner and staring at a pristine, show cooking kitchen? As we check the invitation for the fourth time in as many minutes, the double doors to the elegant dining room swing open and in walk a trio of chefs led by the diminutive Yolanda León, her smile as welcoming as the...